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  no.115   ±Û¾´ÀÌ: ³ª¹«²Û   Á¶È¸: 1606   ³¯Â¥:2007-08-24  
¡Ü link http://www.alpinecarving.com/ec.html
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Boots



  • To accommodate fully extended legs, they use boots with a cuff that can lean back into a fully upright position. Raichle AF700s cannot flex completely upright, but can be modified by cutting more threads on the adjuster bolt to allow the cuff to lean further back.
  • To get the right amount of boot stiffness, they use boots with a medium progressive flex, controlled by a spring. There are a few options:

    • Currently they use Northwave .900 or .950 boots (discontinued) with a softer modified spring. Patrice further softened the boots by cutting a crease on the tongue. It's also possible to soften the boots by replacing the Northwave tongue with a tongue from the Raichle SB series.
    • The RAB mechanism that comes with Raichle AF700s is too stiff, but can be modified by using a softer spring.
    • For EC, the AF600 (with the RAB mechanism) is preferred over the AF700. the lean adjuster in AF600 boots is not sufficient: when locked, it's too stiff, and when unlocked, it does not provide sufficient flex stiffness.
    • The UPZ boots have a spring that is too stiff, in addition to a limited range of flex movement.
    • The ExtremeCarving people have modified head boots with a better spring system.

  • Because the EC style gets the board almost vertical on edge, it's important to avoid boot overhang.

Bindings



  • For EC, it is ideal to use bindings that provide a softer lateral flex, to absorb bumps while the board is nearly vertical. They don't advise step-in bindings, which have too much lateral stiffness. It may be possible to use step-in bindings with softer boots, like the Raichle SB series, but then you won't get the right boot flex.
  • In addition, because the EC style tilts the board very high on edge and causes the board to bend into a small radius turn, it is important to allow the board to flex into a perfect circle in order to gain the most edge hold. In order to achieve this shape, the bindings must not distort the flex pattern of the board. For this reason, bindings should have a small footprint, and should have enough flex in the binding baseplate to allow the board to easily bend underneath it..
  • The EC people run flat bindings on the front and rear. Zero lift and cant works for them because in the middle of a turn with legs fully extended, the board will decamber, bringing the front and rear knees together. However, this setup also puts a lot of stress on the binding bails.
  • The EC people recommend several bindings that have the right stiffness and footprint for EC:

    • The Head DNA / Blax Stealth models, regular style (not step-in). For '06, the regular style is available only in Japan. The Head Intec models are too stiff.
    • Fin's Race Carbon bindings (discontinued, and not to be confused with Bomber)
    • The Snowpro Race bindings have about the right stiffness and footprint size.
    • The Bomber TD2 regular binding with the yellow ring offers vibration dampening while also maintaining edge hold. The Titanium version of the TD2 has Titanium heel and toe bail, which may have the necessary strength for EC. However, the toe bail of the TD2 sticks out a bit too far, so the ExtremeCarving people are using toe levers from the Cateks on the TD2s. The Catek toe levers do not need any modification for use on the TD2. In addition, the TD2 has a bit too much binding height; the extremecarving people shaves off 3mm, and were able to notice an improvement.
    • F2 Race titanium (not the step-in) have the right stiffness. The bindings come in two sizes: medium and large. Get the medium size, if possible, because the footprint is smaller. The F2 bindings have toe levers which are close to the boot, to minimize boot overhang. The bindings have 5mm bails, which are more durable than the 4.5mm bails of the Head DNA.


  • They prefer bindings that have less built-in cant/lift. The minimum cant/lift works with the lower binding angles, and it also provides more rotational freedom, which is especially important for heel side.
  • The bindings should also have a lower overall height. By keeping the binding height low:

    • The rider can feel the terrain, and adjust quickly
    • The body lever is smaller, which makes it easier to perform quick transitions.

  • They run lower binding angles: no more than 55¡Æ in front and 48¡Æ in back. The low angles provide:

    • More rotational freedom, which is most important for the heel side turns.
    • Mobility, which allows more freedom for the knees to perform the push-pull extension maneuver. It is also needed to better control the inclination of the turn.
    • More power transmission from the feet to the edge of the board.

  • However, it's important to verify that your angles are not causing boot-out: You should be able to tilt the board up to around 85¡Æ without any part of your boots dragging in the snow, for both heelside and toeside.

Board


They use a custom-fabricated carving board, the SWOARD ExtremeCarver. See the board details on the boards page. The board was designed based on the needs of the ExtremeCarving technique:



  • Because ExtremeCarving requires low binding angles, the board is built wider (21-23 cm width).
  • In order to achieve good edge grip with such a wide board, the essential feature of the board is an inner carbon matrix that gives the board medium longitudinal flex and high torsional stiffness.
  • It has a sidecut radius of around 12-13 M, which is optimal for ExtremeCarving.
  • Because the board is ridden nearly vertically on edge, the flex pattern significantly influences the final decambered sidecut radius.
  • The EC people use normal edge bevels: 2¡Æ-3¡Æ side and 0¡Æ-1¡Æ base.

 


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